This time we learnt how to do the bleached eyebrow effect with concealer, and how to block them when we want to create new eyebrows. There are many techniques out there to do this, however we learnt more the fashion way. Here are some images of both effects:
This is the bleached eyebrow effect. It was a trend for SS/14. It consists of making the eyebrow look almost to the skin shade, but keeping its texture and shape. Some famous people and models actually bleached their brows to follow this trend (kind of crazy! haha). It became quite popular on the catwalks during this season, mainly by Alexander Wang.
This technique has been used forever on the makeup industry. Changing the eyebrow shape, color, or simply hiding it can give a much greater impact when creating a character in theatre or tv. It is also very used within the fashion industry. There are many ways of doing this, spirit gum, cine-wax, soft putty, glue stick, etc. On the fashion industry, the main one used is glue stick, because it is very fast and easier.
STEP BY STEP:
For this I used the Nyx Concealer Palette. I firstly comb the brow through.
I then apply a warm shade slightly darker than the skin tone to the eyebrow brush, and comb the eyebrow to the opposite hair growth. Once the root of the hairs is colored, I comb the brow to againts the hair growth with the same shade.
I clean the edges, and make sure that there is not product on the skin, so it is only the hairs colored. Then I took a pinkier shade but same shade to the skin tone, and I again comb the brow through, making sure all the hairs don’t look dark at all.
BLOCKED OUT BROW-
I comb the eyebrow upwards and using a pritt stick, pushing the hair into the skin quite hard. This will keep the hairs flat and allow the makeup on top to go smoothly.
I then applied the shade D32 from the Dermacolor on top with a flat brush all over, covering all the eyebrow. As it is a salmon shade, it will conceal the darkness of the hair, and create a neutral base.
I powdered all over with translucent powder, and let it set. I then use a concealer that matches my model’s skin tone and apply it on top of it. This will conceal the yellowiness of the skin.
And final look…
Even though it was a very popular trend on ss14, I do not like it at ALL. I had so many troubles with the pritt stick, the hairs wouldn’t stick down and there was so much residue from it. I think it was the stick, but I also know now that next time I need to add more pressure, and brush them upwards rather than to the side. Another massive trouble I had was concealing the darkness of the brow. However I managed to cover it, but it looked very very caky, but when I photographed with flash it didn’t show that much.
About the bleaching technique, I think it went well and I found it quite easy and effective. I would probably do it again, and even try it on myself.
http://www.xovain.com/how-to/alexander-wang-fw14-beauty-look-tutorial [Accessed Jan 2016]